Friday, April 29, 2011

Points North's May Issue On Stands Now!




I got to do all sorts of fun foodie research for this issue, the most significant of which is my feature on the inaugural Atlanta Food & Wine Festival, which takes place May 19 - 22. A celebration of Southern food, the festival promises to be the ultimate epicurean experience with tasting tents, a street cart pavilion, food seminars, cooking demonstrations, special dinners and more with some of the greatest tastemakers in the South.



Not only did I get to visit festival headquarters (aka, “the war zone”) to meet with co-founder Elizabeth Feichter, but I also had the opportunity to chat with a few of the fantastic chefs and sommeliers who serve on the festival's Founders Council. I spoke with Chef Steven Satterfield of Miller Union, which has recently garnered a great deal of acclaim for Atlanta with nods in national magazines like Bon Appetit and Food & Wine; Chef Ford Fry of JCT Kitchen & Bar, who will be hosting “Pig Out, Texas Style,” one of the most highly anticipated festival fetes; and Gina Hopkins, sommelier and co-owner of Holeman & Finch Public House, H&F Bread Co. and Restaurant Eugene. Perhaps Hopkins summed it up best: “It’s one big bite of the South,” she said, and personally, I can’t wait for a taste.



I also had plenty of opportunities to indulge my sweet tooth this month in the name of research for our “Save Room for Dessert” feature in Food 4 Thought.

The chocolate lava cake at Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse in Dunwoody was the perfect culmination to what Hunter called “the best meal we’ve ever had.” Our primary reason for dining at Fleming’s was to sample their newest private label wine, the 46 Diamonds Cabernet Sauvignon, a Bordeaux-style blend from Napa Valley, which pairs perfectly with several of the restaurant’s succulent steaks. It was quite a treat indeed, as was everything we tasted that evening – the cajun barbecue shrimp appetizer, a porcini-rubbed filet mignon, chipotle cheddar macaroni and cheese, and, of course, that decadently delicious lava cake.



Having heard about all the sugary options that await at Alpine Bakery & Trattoria in Alpharetta, I enlisted the help of a fellow sweet tooth sweetie for this one – my mom. We’re both also big fans of Italian food, so we opted to split the Pollo Milano (grilled chicken, cremini mushrooms, sundried tomatoes, roasted garlic cream sauce with bowtie pasta) to make saving room for dessert a bit easier – a good call, as the portions here are huge. When it came time for dessert, though, we didn’t hold back. After laboring over the extensive list of cakes, pies, cheesecakes, pastries and cookies, we finally settled on a “slice” (more like a mini cake in itself) of coconut cake and the cheesecake truffle sampler, which came with six different flavors of cheesecake dipped in chocolate, and we took one bite of each and every one.




I popped into Aqua Terra Bistro in Buford one afternoon on a whim, and boy, am I glad I did. Their peanut butter cup is incredibly elegant, and the ultimate combination of everything I love in a dessert – smooth chocolate, sweetened peanut butter, caramelized bananas, thick caramel sauce and a dollop of creamy vanilla ice cream to balance it all out.

Got a favorite dessert that didn’t make it into our article? Let me know – perhaps a sweet tooth tour sequel is in order.


Friday, April 1, 2011

Cooking Classes at Barrington Hall

I entered Barrington Hall last week through the back door, straight into the kitchen, just like a personal guest at this majestic antebellum mansion in Roswell, which served as home to the city's co-founder, Barrington King, and multiple generations from his family before its preservation as a historic house museum in 2005. Here, I was greeted by a long, rectangular table set for eight with an olive green table cloth and empty, white plates, like blank canvases for the delicious works of art that were to come from our very own hands.

Since Points North is focusing more attention on food coverage these days, and our second annual Wine & Dine issue is in the works for October, I knew the cooking classes at this well-loved Northside venue would make a good story. Though this class was not full – this spacious kitchen can accommodate up to 10 – we were the “overflow” from the previous evening. What started as once-weekly cooking classes here at Barrington Hall have expanded to two installments for the most popular topics, like this particular evening’s “Cooking with Fresh Herbs.”

I always love cooking classes no matter what the topic, but I was particularly interested in this one, because my share with Cane Creek Farm’s CSA this summer includes all the pick-your-own herbs I want, but half-way through the class, I was considering growing my own. Our instructor for the evening was Chef John Wilson, a certified chef and owner of Culinary Vacations, Inc., which hosts cooking excursions to Asheville and even Europe in addition to various classes around metro Atlanta, and I can see immediately why his instruction is so sought-after; this man knows his way around a kitchen, and his charismatic style is incredibly engaging. 

Chef Wilson began by going over a few talking points about fresh herbs, accentuating each statement with his hands, and joking with the group to loosen us up. (My favorite comment of the evening was his response when someone asked how to tell when a cantaloupe is just right – “It’s like a relationship; it gives under pressure.”) I took notes furiously as he offered his personal advice for cooking with herbs – plant herbs in full sunshine and water once a day, never use more than three herbs in one recipe, preserve herbs by making pesto in the fall – and then it was time for the action to begin.

We gathered around a countertop, where we all had our own cutting boards and knives, for a collective cooking effort. Though one other woman was specifically interested in the herbs, most of my comrades were here for fun, or a general interest in cooking. There were two couples out for “date night,” a mother-daughter team, and a retired gentleman who simply takes pleasure in preparing food. (As it turned out, most of us were also cooking class aficionados, and the conversation over dinner turned to various venues we had visited, and why we all enjoyed this particular format at Barrington Hall).

For each course, Chef Wilson dished out assignments – while some of us minced garlic, others chopped parsley, tarragon and chives (“Paper thin, paper thin!”), and still others cubed bread, chopped vegetables, or measured ingredients. We all had the opportunity to hollow out our own tomatoes for a dish of Stuffed Baked Tomatoes with Fresh Herbs and spread a fragrant herb mixture over chicken breasts for a Rosemary Thyme Chicken Breast Bake.

After each course was properly prepped, Special Events Coordinator Bill Browning led the group on an abbreviated tour of Barrington Hall while we waited for the buzzer to chime. If you’ve never visited the early 19th century home, this is quite a treat in itself. In addition the history of the house, Browning shares plenty of anecdotes that make you feel connected to those who lived (and surely cooked) here in the past. As we were heading back down the servant’s stairs into the kitchen, the scent of our herb-rich dinner was enough to make me swoon.

Supper started with our choice of red or white wine and a savory Summer Herb Cheese Spread with parsley, tarragon, chives, garlic, pepper and herbal vinegar, which is oh, so much richer and creamier than the Boursin cheese, a store-bought version. The baked chicken was just right – juicy and flavorful – and I can’t wait to recreate the baked tomatoes at home this summer with vine-ripe fruit from Cane Creek.

Dinner culminated with a finale of Summer Dessert Cheese made from ricotta, vanilla yogurt, mint and lemon juice. We spread it over chopped cantaloupe and strawberries, but Chef Wilson said it was great with fresh figs, and I will most certainly be giving that a try this August, with figs from my cousin Sarah’s tree (I’ll even feed her for sharing them with me).

Now, I’m officially hooked on fresh herbs. Later that week, I made a homemade goat cheese ranch dressing (a recipe from Gena Knox’s “Southern My Way” cookbook – more on that to come) with fresh chives. And I chopped them paper thin, of course. After all, I learned from the best at Barrington Hall.

Upcoming Cooking Class Schedule at Barrington Hall:

April 5: Spring in Tuscany
Pecorino and Cauliflower Frittata
Pork Loin Braised in Chianti
Sweet and Sour Zucchini
Pine Nut Cookies

April 19: Couples Grilling
Portabella Mushroom Sandwich with Fresh Basil Mayo
Grilled Corn Salad with Black Bean and Jicama
Chutney Glazed Fruit Kababs

June 7: Thai Favorites
Thai Cucumber Salad
Chicken and Eggplant Curry
Pad Thai with Shrimp
Fresh Ginger, Pineapple and Kiwi Toss

June 21: Summer in the French Countryside
Roasted Tomato Tart
Cornish Game Hens with Apricot Glaze
Pan Seared Asparagus
Individual Chocolate Souffles

July 19: Southwest Sizzle
Broiled Salmon with Chile Glaze
Creamy Cilantro Lime Slaw
Corn Pudding with Basil
Cornmeal Sugar Cookies

Aug. 2: Asian-Style Dinner Party
Spicy Sesame Noodles with Chopped Peanuts
Shrimp and Scallion Pancakes
Ginger Soy Marinated Flank Steak
Kaffir Lime and Lemongrass Sorbet

Aug. 16: Summer Cocktail Buffet
Bruschetta with Gorgonzola and Fresh Figs
Shrimp Cakes with Wasabi Vinaigrette
Hot and Spicy Beef Satay with Coconut Peanut Sauce
Smoked Salmon Cucumber Rolls
Watermelon Martinis

Aug. 30: Italian Summer
Caesar-Style Salad
Ribeye Steak with Parmesan, Arugula and Olive Oil
Soft Polenta
Fig Tart with Cardamom Orange Cream